Maytag Washer F9 E1 Code: Meaning & Fixes

Meaning
Long drain: the washer took too long to drain the water.
Can I fix it?
Yes, usually a DIY fix
Also shown as
F9E1, drn
Seen on
Maytag and Whirlpool front-load and top-load washers with electronic controls. Some Whirlpool top-loaders show drn for the same problem.

Maytag’s checklist for F9 E1 starts with how the drain hose is installed, not with the pump. A hose pushed too far into the standpipe, taped in place or sitting too low can siphon water out or slow the drain. On front-loaders, a clogged drain pump filter or blocked holes in the door seal come next.

Try this first

  1. Check that the drain hose goes no more than 4.5 inches into the standpipe and isn't taped or sealed in.
  2. Straighten any kinks in the drain hose and make sure the standpipe or utility sink isn't clogged.
  3. On a front-load washer, clean the drain pump filter. On some models it sits behind the bottom of the dispenser drawer.
  4. On a front-load washer, wipe out the door seal and clear its small drain holes.

What causes F9 E1

CauseWhat you noticeWhat to check
Drain hose too deep in the standpipe Water drains while the washer is still filling No more than 4.5 inches inside the pipe
Hose taped or sealed to the drain Slow drain or water pulled back into the tub The hose should sit loose but secure
Hose end too low or too high Siphoning (too low) or slow drain (too high) Top-loaders: end higher than 36 inches from the floor; no more than 96 inches
Kinked hose or clogged house drain Water backs up at the standpipe The hose behind the washer and the drain itself
Clogged drain pump filter (front-load) Water left in the drum The filter behind the lower front panel or dispenser
Failed drain pump No pump sound during drain Needs a technician

Fix it step by step

  1. Unplug the washer

    Turn the washer off and unplug it before you move it or open the filter.

    Safety: If the washer stopped after a hot wash, let the water cool first.

  2. Fix the drain hose

    The drain hose should go no more than 4.5 inches into the standpipe or laundry tub, keep its U-shaped form, and sit loose but secure: never taped or sealed in. Its highest point can be up to 96 inches above the bottom of the washer. On a top-loader, don't push the hose past its elbow, don't alter the hose form, and keep the end higher than 36 inches from the floor.

  3. Clean the drain pump filter (front-load)

    Put towels and a shallow pan in front of the washer. Open the access panel your owner's manual shows, drain the water and unscrew the filter. Remove lint, coins and anything else caught in it, rinse it and screw it back in firmly.

    Safety: Expect more water than the pan holds. Empty it and repeat.

  4. Clean the door seal (front-load)

    Pull back the folds of the door seal and clear the small drain holes at the bottom with a cloth.

  5. Test

    Plug the washer in and run a Drain & Spin or Rinse & Spin cycle. The water should leave the drum steadily.

When to call a technician

If the hose is installed correctly, the filter and door seal are clean and F9 E1 keeps coming back, the drain pump may be jammed or failed. Contact Maytag service or a technician to test it.

Questions people ask

How do I clear F9 E1 on a Maytag washer?

Fix the drain problem first. Then cancel the cycle with the Power/Cancel button and run a drain or spin cycle. The exact buttons vary by model, so check your manual. Unplugging the washer for a few minutes also resets the control.

Is F9 E1 the same on Whirlpool washers?

Yes. Whirlpool and Maytag washers share this code and the same checks. Some Whirlpool top-loaders show drn instead.

Can the washer drain too fast and still show F9 E1?

Yes, in a way. If the hose is too deep or too low, water siphons out during the fill, the washer keeps refilling and the cycle timing goes wrong. Fixing the hose position solves it.